The Outback: Lightning Ridge, Broken Hill & Silverton
With our passion recently rebirthed to once again start to travel, we set about on our latest adventure exploring Outback Australia. We departed from Brisbane (Queensland) on a road trip, heading to Adelaide (South Australia) right through the top part of NSW.
Well before the sun had risen we packed our bags and an esky into our SUV, with the first stop being a gorgeous breakfast at Toowoomba. With misty morning rains, plus traveling with our pet Cavoodle, we found the perfect dog-friendly café, The Other Bird. Warmed by food and frothy cappuccino’s in our belly we were ready to hit the road once more.
Very soon after leaving the historic town of Toowoomba, we found ourselves were weaving through dusty plains, almost deserted old towns, and even discovered several towns with thermal pools along the way.
It seemed as soon as we hit a muddy unsealed detour road that it began to rain. The earlier rains of the day made for a chunky, muddy and slippery drive. We followed the grooves of vehicles that had gone before us, however, somehow we ripped off the inner guard of the front wheel on the driver’s side. Fortunately, we had a knife to cut it off leaving the engine exposed to the mud flicking up from below. Though the scenery might seem still, the wildlife was bountiful in this rather barren part of the outback. We discovered luxury in the simplicity, and nature’s wild theatre entertained us, with emus racing alongside the vehicle as we drove, and big red kangaroos dancing and boxing in the paddocks. This trip became an unexpected lesson in finding wonder in the remote and rugged. We found ourselves frequently stopping to capture many magical moments with both our cameras, an iphones.
Healing Waters at Lightning Ridge
Our first stop: Lightning Ridge and its famous Artesian Bore Baths. Heated naturally by water flowing from the Great Artesian Basin underneath. My aim was to arrive and enjoy a sunset healing Artesian Bath. We first checked into our accommodation – we had opted for a true outback experience: staying in Lorne Station Shearers Quarters that were dog-friendly and just out of town. We quickly unpacked our things into the ever-so-tiny twin bed 100 year old room, and discovered there was no bathroom – we had to walk to the amenities. Oh no!
Once changed we took off speedily to the Artesian pools, and discovered as we slipped in to the steaming waters that they were a scorching 45 °Celcius. The pools are open 24 hours and completely free, and are a HUGE tourist attraction. We all sat or drifted quietly under the stars as the night sky lit up, chatting softly while steam rose into the bushland hush. We soaked away the road dust, warmed by the mineral-rich water, surrounded by red soil and pepper trees. It was a simple pleasure, yet felt so indulgent, a hidden spa for those who seek understated and unique outback experiences.
Staying in Shearer’s Quarters
Little did we know the Lightning Ridge Opal & Gem Festival was about to begin, and town was packed. We headed to the modern RSL where the serves were generous, the food was good, and the prices were surprisingly low.
Hint: its cheaper to have one of you join as a member and receive discounts.
We returned to our Shearers Quarters and hit the pillows early as it had been a long, long day. It was freezing cold, and the warm embers of camp fires dotted the darkness in a dull glow. Fortunately we had access to the camp kitchen where I heated wheat bags for the beds, and we had extra blankets in the car I dragged in – they were needed. We only just went to sleep when the guys next door returned home – we are guessing from the heavy snoring that there had been a fair amount of alcohol consumed prior to their arrival. We banged repeatedly on the walls as the walls almost reverberated with their heavy breathing, but it was useless. They were out cold, and the rest of us were all wide awake!
We rose again at 5 am to Zero degrees Celcius as we quickly packed, leaving Lightning Ridge behind us. With what seemed to be the lonelinest road I’ve ever driven on, we did not pass a car the entire first two hours. I loved this lonely road. While my son slept, I stopped multiple times for fabulous photos. We could find no towns open to have breakfast, so eventually we pulled over to the side of the deserted road, and ate from the esky, and walked the dog.
We ventured on via the mining town of Cobar where we had planned to stay, however accommodation was full, so after a brief drive around, onward we went.
Broken Hill: Outback Art & Desert Spirits
Rolling into Broken Hill the landscape opened like a painting of ochre tones and wide horizons. We arrived just prior to sunset, entering with the huge mine right in front of us. We had booked dog-friendly accommodation at the Desert Sands Motel near the heart of town where we could walk to dinner. We enjoyed using their BBQ facilities on the second night.
First we visited the iconic Palace Hotel, the pub used in the film Priscilla Queen of the Desert. With its famous painted walls and ceilings I was in awe! I adored the vintage signage and decor, and the bright laughter of noth locals and tourists made this a fun place to be. It was cinematic yet down-to-earth, and just what we needed.
Tip: Definitely book your table if you plan to dine here as they are known to be fully booked. Make sure to wander through the main hotel doors past reception and the front bar too. Don’t forget to look up when you reach the inside hotel accommodation area staircase.
Next day I went to Impact Church in the morning, and definitely recommend going here if you are in town. It’s in a grand old historical building, and worth a visit. With a warm, loving and caring family feel, and a free cuppa, of course!
Returning to the hotel I collected my son (and the dog), and we visited the oldest Milk Bar in Australia – Bell’s Milk Bar. This was definitely a fun thing to do, and the milkshakes are fabulous. The guy who works there making them is a hoot too.
After this our next stop was the Pro Hart Gallery and Museum, named after Broken Hill’s most famous artist Kevin Charles Hart. We laughed at the replay of his old television commercials for “Stainmaster Carpets” with the room erupting in cries of “Mr Hart, Mr Hart”. Pro Hart narrative paintings, etchings and sculptures capture the spirit of working-class and outback life. Our wonderful guide explained both the Christian, spiritual, and also his 20 years as a mining worker – these formed the meaning behind many of his art pieces. Wandering through the museum felt like stepping into his heart and workshop, local stories painted in bold strokes of red and gold. We learnt about the meaning of the ‘ants’ he paints, and fell in love with his artwork.
We ended that afternoon with a drive out to the Living Desert Sculpture Sanctuary, where giant stone figures emerge from the Barrier Ranges at sunset. Crafted by international artists in 1993, these sculptures stand sentinel over dunes glowing in golden dusk. The place feels timeless and the view in all directions is breathtaking. As the sun dipped, these silent forms seemed alive; dramatic; beautiful; and serene – all at once, with Broken Hill lights twinkling before us.
Silverton: Mad Max, Wild Horses & Cinematic Dust
We had a jam-packed day ready to go. My memories of visiting the famous ghost mining town of Silverton are strong in my mind. I can still see myself as a child. Both young and old will love this road to Silverton, that feels at times like you are dipping and rising on a roller-coaster! It’s really just short drive from Broken Hill through protected sparse and barren land. The wild goats are plentiful, the paddy-melons grow wild on the sides of the road, and remind me of when my Dad brought us here and we had a game of bowls with them. This whole area is immortalised in Mad Max 2 (The Road Warrior) and other outback famous classics, and its a great idea to watch the movie before heading out here.
We explored the Mad Max 2 Museum, where life-size characters, original costumes and salty rusted vehicles line dusty display cases, three Ford Falcon V8 Interceptors included. The passion of its curator, is a British fan who turned local resident, and it shows in every detail. Walking through that corrugated-iron shed felt like stepping into a post-apocalyptic film set made real. We both loved it and driving back later that day we felt like we were right at the scene of the movie.
Tip: This is a very dog-friendly town (dogs are even allowed in the Silverton Pub), and small dogs can be carried in the dispay area of the museum, and put down in the second half.
Beyond the museum, we stood at the old Silverton Gaol and mine ruins, that were once crumbling relics that whispered of silver rushes past. When I’d visited here as a kid, Dad had just got his first movie camera, and he made us marcha round the courtyard. I paid cash to go in, but alas it was all restored, and the memory was gone. We then lunched at the Silverton Pub, which really is an iconic pub, that has fed many a famous person in it’s time. The fireplace was roaring, and it was a true Australian Outback experience.
Outside the landscape here is pure widescreen: pale red dust, rusted fences, and a momentum of history. On the plains surrounding Silverton we witnessed horses charging free. Their manes streaming across blazing sunlit desert gave us a cinematic moment. The entire scene felt like a western painting come alive, something you’d expect to see just before John Wayne tips his hat and rides across the ridge. We drove up a dusty hill and managed to capture them roaming perfectly! It was the kind of moment that made us stop and look at each other, quietly stunned by the raw beauty of it all. The sun hung low, the air was still, and for a few seconds the line between real life and something out of an old film blurred. You don’t plan for scenes like this. They just happen and the trick I’ve learnt is to STOP, as you’ll never find it just like that again.
Luxury in the Unexpected
This wasn’t a trip of five‑star hotels or rooftop cocktails, but we found luxury travel in quiet moments: in holding an original Pro Hart painting; dipping in mineral-rich pools under stars; watching sunlight animate stone sculptures at sunset, and sharing a cold drink at a true-blue great Aussie Pub. And, watching horses thundering across desert plains was definitely a highlight!
We discovered luxury in slowing down and noticing the tiny details. Things like colour of the earth, the warmth of thermal water on tired muscles, the glow on sculpted stone, and the warmness of the western sun. We adored the outback hospitality, and loved the friendliness of the locals.
This outback route reminded us that adventure doesn’t always roar, it sometimes whispers; it sometimes glints in heat haze, and it always rewards those who slow their watch.
As we drove out of Broken Hill, heading to Adelaide, South Australia, we realised we adored this country city. In fact, I miss it, It has a unique magic to it, and I long to visit again – soon, I hope!
Until next time, may your travels lead you into dust roads and hidden springs and unexpected art under open skies.
